I was lucky enough to be in Marrakech for a few days recently and while I spent most of my days in a conference hall the couple of times that I managed to escape reminded me just why this is one of my favourite cities anywhere in the world.
Heading in to the old city early evening I was determined to grab a few moments in the Djem el Fnaa – the main square. I knew roughly where I was heading however any doubts were quickly cast aside as I just needed to follow the increasing flow of people and the steadily growing hum of noise. Emerging into the square the assault on my ears and eyes was immediate; the bands of musicians, drummers and toy salesmen and the rows of restaurant tables with their strip lighting shining through the smoke from the grills and fires. I had forgotten how good the fresh orange juice tasted, how delicious the grilled meats at the stalls were, how quickly you can get lost after the first couple of turns in the souks and, above all, how this is, despite the numbers of foreign visitors, still the heartbeat of the city for its own inhabitants with the local crowds gathered tightly around the storytellers and all ages applauding and joining in with the musicians. Walking back through the gardens of the Koutoubia Mosque the din fell away instantly.
One evening I went for dinner in a remote riad. Given some basic instructions on how to find it on foot I relied instead on my taxi driver who, squeezing through the narrowest of spaces finally manoeuvred the car into a cul-de-sac! Well not quite because an alley led into a lane and then into a tunnel, at the end of which was a wooden door. No sign of life and nobody around and then the door swung open to reveal the beauty of a riad within – its secluded courtyard, fountains, palms and surrounding gallery creating a mini-oasis within the city and such a contrast to the blank exterior walls. A gorgeous Moroccan meal followed with delicate filo pastilla and small briouat, samosa like pies, with tender lamb keftas and varied tagiines – a feast accompanied by an atmospheric lute. Stepping back into the medina the empty lanes gave no sign of the life behind the blank walls.
These were two real highlights; the Djem el Fnaa and a Marrakech riad, that reminded what a treat it is to visit Marrakech and why it is included in most trips to Morocco both short and long. Only 3 hours flight away, with a huge choice of flights, and there is nowhere else you can so easily reach the exotic.
Bales offers a wide range of tours or tailor-made holidays to Morocco. We would suggest that you combine Marrakech with the Atlas Mountains or the Atlantic coast. Longer tours would link it with the other Imperial Cities in the north (Fez or Meknes) or cross the Atlas Mountains to see the Kasbahs on the edge of the Sahara Desert. Bales 10 day escorted tour, Cultural Morocco, combines the main highlights of the country and is currently from £1495 per person.
