Countless news snippets of the crazy things that Japanese do have always amazed me. Are the Japanese just crazy or are just different? Or both? Our upbringing dictates our outlook on life and one of the wonderful things about travelling is experiencing different cultures. “And now for something completely different”…
I spent a day exploring the “dark side of Tokyo”. My first stop was to take a look at a Capsule Hotel. My fortune to be staying at the Shangri-La Toyko, one of the super luxurious hotels in the city, did not mean I couldn´t reminisce about my backpacking days. If I was on a low budget travelling for a few weeks in Japan then I suspect that I would be spending the odd night in a capsule hotel. The one I looked at had a large room with two rows of a total of 40 capsules stacked two high. The capsule looked remarkably like a mortuary slab apart from not having the convenience of a being able to pull out the bed. Basically it was just a tiny enclosed “capsule”, approximately 2m long, 1m high and 1m wide. To turn over would test the flexibility of ones body and require a certain amount of contortion. Apart from a pillow, futon mattress, a tiny TV and air-conditioning unit that was it. Close the door and sleep. Definitely a couple of sakes would be needed to go to sleep quickly. Personal belongings are stored in a locker elsewhere and bathroom facilities are shared. The hotel seemed very busy with young travellers and I think I would be fine to sleep one night just as an experience. The thought of sleeping a few consecutive nights certainly would not appeal. The cost of one night was just 3,000 Yen or £20.00. However we shall not be introducing the capsule hotels to the Bales hotel portfolio!
Elsewhere in Tokyo I came upon the “Love Hotel Hill”. A series of streets with mini-hotels for the couples who could not get intimacy at home or for daytime trysts. The hotels were not exactly discreetly hidden down a back street as many of them were built to appear like castles with rococo architecture, turrets and Roman statues to attract the needing couples. Travelling alone I did not have the chance to check out the facilities in the same way I would do with my other hotel inspections elsewhere in Japan!

Manga shop
Japanese “manga” cartoon books and films are famous all over the World. Historically they developed from old Japanese art and won over the mass market after the second World War. Taking the subway in Tokyo or other cities a remarkable percentage of passengers have their faces buried in mangas books. The fantasy world is often carried over to the real one. Many people express their feelings and partake in “costume play”. Mostly girls will dress as cartoon characters and go out for a night on the town or let their hair down at the weekend. This fantasy world sees cafes where the waitresses dress as manga characters. The most popular being the maid cafes where girls dress as French maids! Of course ladies can go to a “butler café” and get served by men in tuxedos. I never went in as I thought there might be a more risque side to things but in reality this is an innocent costume play and not related to anything more sinister. However I did see some girls dressed up as Bo Peep and maid girls elsewhere in the city. On Sundays this reaches a crescendo as the “cosplay” girls and boys meet outside one of the public parks and pose for photos for tourists.
My last stop on the “alternative” self-designed tour of Tokyo was a visit to the “Cat´s House”. Located on the 8th floor of a shopping centre, I paid 600 Yen or £4.00 entrance and entered the home for 20 cats. As living space is small in Japanese homes and many apartments do not allow pets, the Cat´s House offers the opportunity for people to come and interact with cats. The 20 moggies were relaxing amongst various themed rooms, including a cat train and a cat kitchen. There is also a cat TV channel for them to watch! About 10 other people were there stroking, watching and taking photos of the cats. In fact the moggies were living such a luxury life they were not paying too much attention to the customers. They sat and watched their TV channel and prounced around the rooms enjoying the luxury lifestyle they were lucky enough to be living. For all feline friends I highly recommend a visit!
I decided to return to my luxury hotel to think about the fun day and the Japanese mentality. It is definitely very different and in many ways quite weird, though very entertaining. I look forward to visiting Tokyo again and spending another day searching out the crazy things to do!
About Steve Lidgey
Other articles by Steve Lidgey
As the Asia Product Manager (Indian Subcontinent & The Orient) there are so many different memorable journeys to think about on every working day. As I can´t afford to do them all myself it is a privilege and a pleasure to work on planning other peoples holidays. My favourite destinations include the north-east of Thailand, southern Laos and Rajasthan. Away from my usual country portfolio Colombia and Brazil are places I love to visit…and then revisit again. 
Interesting article Steve – i myself have spent time in Japan and found the culture similar to what you describe, however i found the experience very memorable. Did you spend any time yourself at the “Love Hotel Hill”? Des
Hi Des. I walked around the “Love Hotel Hill” district and popped my head into a couple of the hotels. Some interesting illuminated menus! As it was a work trip and I didn’t have a lady with me I didn’t have time to “test the facilities”!!!