Since I can remember I have always had a fascination with all things Japanese. From the delightfully intricate cuisine that is meticulously and skilfully prepared to the stories of Ronin or masterless samurai roaming the countryside during feudal times I was hoping that my first visit to Japan would not be a disappointment.
My first stop was Hiroshima. A nice, easy start as I got used to making my own way around town using local trains, subways and buses. It was surprisingly easy as nearly all signs are in English, transport runs on time and exits from stations are clearly signposted. There was no need to rely on my ten words of Japanese. I spent the morning visiting the Peace Memorial Park and Museum, dedicated to telling the story of the build up to Enola Gay unreleashing the atomic-bomb and the aftermath. Later on as I looked over the city from my 20th floor hotel room I found it hard to imagine the complete devastation that was wrecked when Hiroshima became the world´s first atomic-bomb target. Fortunately today Hiroshima is a thriving, modern, forward thinking city.
I took the subway and ferry to the island of Miyajima. This is the home of the famous huge “Torii” (entrance gate to a shrine), one of the most photographed attractions in Japan. The streets are full of tame deer that you can stroke and feed biscuits! On Miyajima I was able to experience a traditional Japanese lodge or “ryokan”. Tatami-mat floors and futon beds and the best thing of all, a traditional Japanese onsen (hot spring) to relax in after trekking the scenic island trails. Not to forget probably the most interesting meal I have ever had in my life. Admittedly I wasn´t quite sure what all of the XXX courses were but they are tasted simply delicious!
Back on the mainland I caught the Shinkansen or bullet train to Kyoto. A busy couple of days were had exploring the temples and streets of the town. One evening I was lucky enough to get glimpses of geishas entering restaurants and private houses.
Ryoan-Ji Temple
Many of the temples and shrines in Kyoto are located in peaceful, garden environments. The feng shui symbolism of Ryoan-ji temple was a little lost on me – staring at 15 rocks set amongst a raked, pebbled gravel was not the highlight of my morning. Far better the forest environment of Fushimi-Inari shrine with walkways lined with hundreds of red torii. This brought back fond memories of the “Memoirs of a Geisha” film which featured the shrine. A half day trip from Kyoto took me to Nara, a small town with eight UNESCO World Heritage sites. The highlight being Todai-ji temple which contains a massive bronze Buddha image. All over Nara tame deer roam and it was a funny sight to see them getting fed biscuits by schoolchildren. The deer are so keen they scare the children as they leap up to grab the biccies!
My final stop was the exciting capital, Tokyo. From busy electronic districts to relaxing parks and tuna auctions at 5 a.m. to late nights amongst the neon lights of the entertainment districts Tokyo was a fun place to be. I decided to walk the back streets one evening to get to a recommended restaurant and saw childen practising martial arts, businessmen drinking sake in tiny bars and golf driving ranges just a few minutes from flashing lights and skyscrapers.
It is often said that Japan is a mixture of tradition and a playground for the future. This is indeed true of the country. I had many expectations and perhaps expected disappointment when forming my opinions on Japan. What I found was a welcoming country, with a thriving culture whilst grasping at modernity at every opportunity. I look forward to returning to continue my explorations. Not sure if I really needed that electronically heated toilet seat in the summertime in Japan though…
About Steve Lidgey
Other articles by Steve Lidgey
As the Asia Product Manager (Indian Subcontinent & The Orient) there are so many different memorable journeys to think about on every working day. As I can´t afford to do them all myself it is a privilege and a pleasure to work on planning other peoples holidays. My favourite destinations include the north-east of Thailand, southern Laos and Rajasthan. Away from my usual country portfolio Colombia and Brazil are places I love to visit…and then revisit again. 